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Post Info TOPIC: 570 REAR AXLE SEAL
len


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570 REAR AXLE SEAL


Guys i need some help.I am restoring a 570 gas and rear axle seal is leaking.Already have the wheel off .i have restored a number of vehicles over the years but never worked on a tractor so am a bit lost.I pulled the cap off the rear hub and see that the hub sits on a spline.I need step by step instructions.The shop manual says i gotta pull the bull gears and other stuff.Really????????? I am really enjoying this tractor project.Am about 1/2 finished.Only started it a couple months ago but as i am retired i spend about 4 hours a day on it.Please help



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When you say you pulled the cap off the rear hub, I'm assuming you mean the bolt threaded into the end of the axle. The splined hubs can be difficult to remove. I built a puller for mine, and wouldn't waste time or risk breaking something by doing it another way. 

The axle bearing preload is adjusted by varying the number and thickness of shims under the 6-bolt cover on the end of the axle housing. If your bearings are in good condition, you can get away with simply replacing the seal and putting back the same stack of shims you took out. Try to make a new gasket the same thickness as the old one. 

If either of your bearings are damaged, you will need to readjust the preload, and if the inner bearing is bad you will need to remove the bull gear. 

If you have any more questions, please say so. 



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len


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ok thanks.Thats a good place to start.I dont have a welder but do have a torch .Will have to figure out a puller.



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You're welcome.  I didn't use either a welder or a torch to accomplish anything we've discussed.  I can post a photo of the puller later, if you like.



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len


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That would be great.Meanwhile i am thinking a piece of 1/4 " plate the same diameter as the outside of the hub.drill 9 holes in it and set the plate over the hub with a small spacer over the sprocket.possibly 1/2 or 3/4 " spacer.than put the lug bolts through the plate and thread em into the hub equally.As they thread tighter this should put pressure on the plate to the spacer over the sprocket.after the lugs are all equally tight if nothing gives put a bit of heat to the hub and possibly a bit of a tap with a hammer to jar it..i would assume one shouldnt beat on the hub as its cast and will break?



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I think you'll bend a 1/4" plate, and don't recommend pounding on anything.

I'll post a photo later.



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len


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ok thanks.much appreciated



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This was made for a different style cast center, but the principle is the same.  The bar is 1-1/2" x 2" x 13-1/2", with a 3/4" forcing screw down the center that pushed on a plate I set against the end of the axle.  There was never any doubt that it would pull the hub off, but it had to work for a living.

For a conventional 9-bolt hub, I would make something similar with a Y-shaped bar or a round disc that would attach to 3 bolt holes 120 degrees apart.

IMG_1549.jpg



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len


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thank you my friend..i think a   Y  would be best as a round plate would be so heavy i wouldnt be able to lift it.will let you know how i make out..might be a while..pulled the brakes off and didnt realize i had to drain the diff oil first so you can imagine the mess i have.oh well.time to properly clean my shop floor anyhow.



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len


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i want to thank you on the help by sending me a picture of your hub puller.worked like a charm..the first one just popped right off. the second one took 20 tons of pressure i am sure but it came off.thanks again



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You're welcome.  I'm glad you were able to get them off.



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