540 Timing

jc07x · Veteran Member

540 Timing

Cockshutt560 · Administrator

Sorry I completely over looked this post. Attached is the timing procedure. Hope this helps.

Well the upload was not very easy to read so you can click on the link for a better copy.

Cockshutt 540 timing

-- Edited by Cockshutt560 on Saturday 6th of November 2010 09:46:08 AM

jc07x · Veteran Member

I am having problem getting spark. There is good spark on all cylinders only if the distributor cap is only half secured on one side. If I clamp it down properly I lose spark. I have changed from a 6V to 12V charging system, replaced points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, generator to alternator, ballast resistor. What does it mean when they say it is timed in full retard? Is it to be timed 6 deg. B.T.D.C ? Thanks

jminer77 · Senior Member

when we change ours to 12v we wire it so when starting we bypass the resistor and get a full 12v to the ignition then when running it goes through the resistor

jc07x · Veteran Member

Thanks for the reply. Where in the system is your resistor?

jc07x · Veteran Member

Are you using a 12V coil and then stepping it down to 6V between the coil and distributor? Is it ok to use a 12V coil with the original 6V points and condenser? I have been trying get this thing working right for some time. I can get it running but then it quits and I lose spark??????????Please help!!

Doug550 · Senior Member

I have the same distributor on my 540 and last year I too had a problem with it. After removing the distributor I discovered that the bushing was binding badly so I removed it and replaced it. I also installed a grease fitting so I could lube it.

I've also installed a new Ignitor coil #40611 for my 12v system. Several years ago I was having cutting-out problems on my White/Oliver/Cockshutt 2-44LL 12v TLB and I went through 3 coils in one summer. Two of those coils were new ones made in China. Poor quality and vibration killed the coils so I upgraded to a Pertronix Electronic Ignition with the Epoxy-filled coil (#40611) and I've not had one problem since.

If you notice in the attached photo on Pertronix coils you'll see that the difference between a 6v coil (#40111) and the 12v coil (#40611) is the 'turn ratio' of 115:1 vs 73:1, and so this means that since the volume of the coil is constant, the way to alter the internal resistance is to alter the number of windings on either the Primary or the Secondary side. By altering the windings you alter the amount of metal in there, hence the resistance. So there really is no such thing as a seperate "Internal Resistor" inside these coils.

So right now I'm using the Epoxy-filled coil with the regular points, but come time to change points I will install the Electronic Ignitor #1143 on the Cockshutt 540.

I also now have about 5 years on the Pertonix #1142 (and 40611 coil) in my 1962 Cockshutt 550 with ZERO problems.

Hope this helps

-- Edited by Doug550 on Monday 12th of March 2012 10:46:02 AM

thecoopkid · Senior Member

If you loose spark by clamping down the dist. cap I would suspect a bad ground between the breaker plate and the dist. housing. Clean all the conections and make sure you have a good ground.

The same points and condenser can be used in either a 6 or 12 volt system

Some 12 volt coils have the resistor built in and some require an external resistor. Read the fine print on the side of the coil and hopfully it will say. If not there may be a part number and an intelligent parts man can tell you.

-- Edited by thecoopkid on Monday 19th of March 2012 01:06:22 PM

-- Edited by thecoopkid on Monday 19th of March 2012 01:11:48 PM

jc07x · Veteran Member

So if I install a 12V coil can I use the original condencer or does it have to be changed to a 12V condenser? Is it possible for a bad coil to work ok at times and not at others?

Doug550 · Senior Member

The only 6v system I currently have is a Ford 8n and I have not had an occassion to try a 6v condenser in a 12v system.

From my understanding, the condenser's purpose is to absorb the excess voltage produced in the primary winding when the coil's magnetic field collapses, thus preventing the points from arcing and burning. So I think you could certainly use the 6v condenser and take pictures of the points at different intervals to see if they are in fact arcing. Regardless whether it is a 6v or a 12v system, there is still the same 25000v (approx) being sent to the distributor when the magnetic field collapses in the coil, however, a 12v system may have more excess volts to be absorbed by the condenser.

Bad coil? Most definitely! a bad coil may work fine at startup (cool temp) but as the coil warms up or the vibrations increase it can cut out . Easy way to tell is to wait 30 minutes and see if it will start with a cooler coil.