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Post Info TOPIC: Cockshutt 30 - Buda 4 Cyl - Crankcase Oil Seal Leak at Front - remove crankjaw nut


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Cockshutt 30 - Buda 4 Cyl - Crankcase Oil Seal Leak at Front - remove crankjaw nut


I have an oil leak at the front behind the crankpulley, suspect the oil seal in the crankcase needs to be replaced.  But, I can't get the pully bolt / jawnut off.
Any suggestions here.  Please be descriptive as I would like to take the pulley nut off as easy as possible.  Great site!!

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I haven't worked on one but from the pictures it looks to me like you can weld up a square socket.

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Joe Hunter
Atlanta, IN

cockshutt560@hotmail.com



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You will have fun with this seal change project... Start by pulling off your governor and its attachments, your water pump, and generator to clear the area, then get a torch with map gas and heat up the nut until it is good and hot, then get a 5/8 inch brass punch and knock the nut counter clockwise to loosen it or a pipe wrench if it still doesnt want to move. Then heat the pulley hub again with the torch and use 2 flat pieces of rigid thin metal like tapered pry bars that are about 2 inches wide and carefully and evenly pry off the pulley from opposite sides. Dont worry if the seal catches fire or smokes; just blow it out. You will then need to remove the forward engine support by jacking up the forward end of the block by the pan with wood placed to spread the load so you don't dent the pan. Don't loose or confuse the shims under the support on each side. Also don't jack the engine very high, just enough to relieve the load. The seal has to be replaced by removing the timing cover and trying to drive the seal inward around a metal flange and through a felt dirt seal all driven in the backward direction toward the block to remove. You could also use an expandable seal puller from the back side of the timing cover and knock it back out. Then install the new seal from the back with the correct orientation with flat face of the seal on the forward side. To do so you need a tool that fits the thin side edges on the back side of the seal and carefully drive it so it wont be ruined. You may need to take it to an expert here if you don't have a good tool. If you are really good, you might be able to remove the flange that is blocking your way in the seal hole. This would allow you to install the seal normally from the outside face. To finish, clean off and replace the timing cover gasket and put the thing back together in reverse order. Good Luck!



-- Edited by Handy_Man_01 on Sunday 29th of April 2012 12:09:54 AM

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Thanks for the info guys.

I managed to get the nut off by turning the engine and fixing a large wrench and came off.  The crank pulley was seized and had to grind off, lots of work.  I held up the engine before I pulled the cover off but did not support on oil pan but on the sides of engine, safer and more stable.

I then removed the crank oil seal with an seal puller and tapped in the seal with some PVC pipe with a smaller dia then the oil seal.  Pressed in beautifully.  De-greased and cleaned all parts, re-assembled everything and started great with no oil leaks....

It was a lot of work but worth it as I don't have to worry about oil leaking now.  FYI the old crank seal was made of a fabric type not rubber.  The new one should give me years of trouble free use.

One question, do you spray the oil seal with a lubricant say silicone to keep it from sticking to the pulley shaft? Should be done as winter prep ??

Again thank you for sharing !!!

Tony



-- Edited by agyuro on Sunday 29th of April 2012 12:21:59 PM

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I got the nut off one with a pipe wrench.  It wasn't easy, though.  The pulley slipped off but the front seal is pressed in from the inside of the front cover.  I didn't want to get into that job at the time.  You could try repairing it with a Speedy Sleeve from CR Seals.  It's s thin stainless steel sleeve that fits on the pulley shank with a little Locktite.  It makes the shank a little larger and gives it a new smooth surface for the seal.  You can get one from a local bearing supplier.  Cost a little over $20.  I used one on mine but it didn't help much because the crank was too loose.



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No need.  Just apply a little motor oil to the seal lip before you slide the pulley in.  And make sure the seal surface of the pulley is smooth and not grooved.  If it has a groove from the old seal a Speedy Sleeve will correct that.  The seal lip faces the side where the oil is.



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