Well 9 views and 1 reply is at least some sign of life.LOL
I joined the forum a couple years ago when I first started seriously looking for a Canadian built Cockshutt but since it took me awhile to find one I havent been checking in. I am on YT also, have been for awhile but Im usually lurking in the garden tractor forum, or occasionally the IHC corner because I own a couple 154 Loboys.
So anyways... My Pop had a White/Cockshutt/MM service center when I was a kid so thats where I first held a wrench and therefore my excuse to find a Cockshutt, now I have one so the adventure begins. Im going to look at a very reasonably priced 40 this weekend as well, at this point I dont how much is interchangable between the 40-50 so Im looking for info on that, which Ive also posted on YT.
Ideally, and eventually, as the budget allows, I'd like to have a fully restored tractor but I'll tackle it one small goal at a time, I was told it was driven to the spot where I found it but since it hasnt ran for 3-4 years the first goal is simply to drain fluids and check for water where it shouldnt belong, pull the plugs and put some diesel in the cylinders to soak, clean the fuel system... once all the basics are in order I'll crank it over. I'd be more than happy if I can drive it(4km) to our local antique truck/tractor show next fall;)
I'll have to find a spot on the tractor for this magnetic door sign from Pops old service truck;)
Hey, Lance. I usually check here about once a week. I agree, not much traffic and I think Cockshutt/COOP guys are kind of like orphans in general. Good luck with the 50. I'm trying to get the engine rebuild on my E4 done but other things get in the way.
Well the engine in the 50 needs to be rebuilt, its seized from having the crank full of water, the PO left the tractor outside with no gas cap or muffler cover, so for a quicker solution Ive brought home a 40 that just needed the gearshift lever replaced. I swapped in the lever from the 50 yesterday so now I have a working tractor and a resto project. Bottom of the lever was badly worn and beat to crap so I want to do an oil change before using the tractor very much. I would expect something this old would have had an 80/90 weight but with todays hightech oils Im wondering if I could use something lighter.... anyone have an opinion on that theory?? I run hydraulic fluid in my IH 154 Loboy trans/diff.
-- Edited by Lance Skene on Saturday 8th of April 2017 06:57:49 AM
I wouldn't run anything other than 80W90. Furthermore, due to the age of these tractors and the fact most of them have been ridden hard and put away wet, I suggest pulling the transmission and differential covers, and even the PTO housing since you're draining the system anyway, to have a look around for damage. This will also give you a chance to clean the dirt, rust, sludge, pieces of bearing cage, etc., out of the places they tend to accumulate.
I will pull the covers off and flush everything out but Im thinking a modern hydraulic-transmission fluid should be an improvement over an 80/90 such as was available in the 50s would it not?? Years ago 80/90 was used because anything else available at the time wouldnt stick to fast rotating parts but modern hy-trans fluids are specifically designed to stick to those rotating parts and be easier to pump thru the hydro lines.
Just for example: my 1975 IH Loboy 154 has a very similar system where the manual transmission and hydraulic pump share the same oil reserve and Hy-Trans is the recommended oil in that case.
While you could do worse than a universal fluid that is designed for gearbox, differential, and hydraulic use, I don't see what you would gain in this case. Cockshutt hydraulic systems are separate, and the differential oil doesn't get pumped anywhere. A good, yellow metal safe 80W-90 will contain extreme pressure additives not found in the universal fluid and will be a better lubricant in this system.
A modern example, for the sake of comparison, is the Ford Super Duty. It has a conventional rear differential with spiral bevel gears and tapered roller bearings, and is factory filled with gear lube, not hy-trans.
